Wipers are very important tools of our cars. This keeps our car’s windshield clean while driving. A broken wiper is not cool and dangerous as this might affect visibility while driving. That’s why at the signs of windshield wiper damage, you should have your car’s windshield wipers replaced. Clueless on how to replace the wiper blades of your car? Don’t worry, because we have some tips on how to replaces your old, broken wiper blades with a new one.

Make sure that you have a flat head screwdriver to help you with this task. Also, remember to place a cloth or an old shirt between the windshield and the wipers. This prevents the windshield wipers from touching the windshield that could cause scratches.

- Remove the old wipers. Use the old wipers as a point of comparison as to what you should get to replace them. In removing the old blades, remember the three different mechanisms commonly found in cars of today: The universal slide (the common blade design); the side pin (made of 7mm. pin that is at the right angle to the wiper arm) and the bayonet arm.

- Buy the new wipers. Only get the wiper blade that fits your vehicle.

- Install the new wipers. Just follow the instructions that came with the wipers that you bought. The inlays that come with the wipers have images and step-by-step instructions on how you can install the wipers. Just like in the removal of the wipers, remember the three mechanisms; The universal slide, the side pin and the bayonet arm.

- After installation, do check the wipers by using the car’s windshield washers. This way you will know if the wipers are working well. There should be no squealing, chattering or streaking.

Now that you know the deal, there’s no excuse for you to keep your car’s windshield wipers broken. Go and keep those clean windshields anytime, anywhere.

True enough, you have made sure that all your tools are already complete and spanking brand new. Seems fun, isn’t it? But wait-have you gotten yourself some online auto repair manuals already?

For guys like you who are novice when it comes to auto maintenance, online auto repair manuals are really heaven-sent. Before you try to tear your vehicle apart, make sure you understand the basics of vehicle repair, which you can get from online auto repair manuals. Without online auto repair manuals to instruct you through the process, you will be in for problems and huge expenses. With so many options available in terms of online auto repair manuals, it’s wise to grab one for yourself right away.

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Does your ride keep on pulling to one side every time you step on the brakes? Do your brake pads easily and unevenly wear out? If you experience these problems—and even get a brake fluid leak coating your front brake pads for a bonus—then you definitely have to replace your brake caliper. Of course, a short call to your mechanic or a trip to the nearest repair shop would help you automatically solve this problem. But why don’t you try a DIY brake caliper replacement? It’s easy and you’ll get to save on repair fee. Besides, it’s not one of those repair jobs where you literally have to get down and (really) dirty. Just follow the procedures below for that easy caliper replacement job.

Here are what you’ll need for the task: drip pan, screwdriver, socket wrench, floor jack, jack stand, caliper lube, new brass washers, new caliper

1. Park your vehicle on a level surface. Jack it up and secure it with jack stands under the pinch welds or frame rails. Remove the wheel assembly where the caliper to be replaced is located. (For step-by-step instructions on removing the wheel assembly, you can refer to this guide.)

2. Remove the two bolts retaining the caliper flex hose. Depending on your car, there may be clips instead of bolts.

3. Clamp the caliper hose with a needle nosed vise grip to keep the brake fluid from pouring out. When putting the vise grip on the hose, however, make sure you don’t clamp it too tight. It might ruin the hose’s structural integrity and make it more prone to developing cracks and holes.

4. Remove the banjo fitting at the end of the hose by unscrewing the banjo bolt with a socket wrench. Throw away the washers on the fitting. You have to replace them with new ones upon reassembly.

5. Remove the caliper bolt. It’s usually found just beneath the banjo fitting. Depending on your car make and model, there may be two caliper bolts you have to remove: an upper bolt located above the banjo fitting and a lower one located below.

6. You can now remove the caliper. All you have to do is pull it up; it will pivot on its guide pin. Once it gets off the brake rotor’s surface, pull it to the side (towards the engine) to slide it off the guide pin, that unthreaded bolt on which the caliper hangs.

7. Take off the brake pads by removing the retainer pin and the anti-rattle spring. Replace the brake pads if their friction surfaces are already worn beyond specification.

8. Now, you’re ready to put everything back with your new caliper. Put lubricant on back and ends of brake pads so they can be easily installed into the caliper and won’t make any noise once you use the brakes.

9. Slide loaded caliper back onto its guide pin and over the rotor. Put back the caliper mounting bolt(s) you removed earlier. Tighten them to the manufacturer’s specifications.

10. Re-install the banjo fitting with the brass washers. Make sure you replace these with new ones to ensure the seal.

11. Re-install the bolts that retain the caliper hose and then unclamp the vise grip from the caliper hose.

12. Locate the bleeder screw on the caliper body. Loosen it to allow the system to bleed by gravity. Wait for the brake fluid to drain. If the brake fluid is already flowing out steadily, make sure there’s no more air pocket in the passages by tapping on the caliper for a few times.

13. Tighten the bleeder screw and re-install the rubber cap on it. Make sure you install the cap properly to prevent leakage and keep dirt from fouling the screw and the brake fluid.

Having re-installed the brake pads, it’s important that you set them on the rotor first before driving. To do this, you just simply pump the brake pedal for a few times. If the pedal’s movement is all right, you can finally put back the wheel assembly. Finally, perform a road test to make sure your brakes are properly working.

Automotive engineers have actually made car troubleshooting easier for car owners when they made use of the Check Engine light. Found on the instrument panel of your dash, the Check Engine light is that little sign that’s in the form of an outline of an engine’s side view. However, unless you’re familiar with what a car engine looks like outside of the engine compartment, you wouldn’t know why the symbol looks like that. Good thing, some manufacturers made it quite easier to identify by putting “Check Engine” along with the symbol. To troubleshoot a check engine light, here’s what you should do:

1. Start up your engine.

2. See if the Check Engine light is illuminated while the engine is running. A steady light usually indicates that there’s a problem in your vehicle and you should perform a check as soon as possible. However, if the light is blinking–or, in some vehicles, colored red instead of yellow–that means the problem is serious and you should have something in your car repaired or remedied before you drive it again.

3. Before popping up the hood or jacking up your car, do check other trouble indicators on your instrument cluster first. Some of these are the:

• Oil pressure gauge — This would indicate if there’s still enough oil in your engine.
• Temperature gauge — Its reading would give you a fairly accurate measurement of your engine’s temperature, whether it’s still below the ideal operating temperature or it’s already heating up dangerously.
• Brake warning light — This could indicate if there’s an imbalance in brake fluid pressure in your wheels. Such imbalance usually occurs when the brakes are improperly bled.

4. If they check negative, you can try doing the following:

• Tighten the fuel tank cap (Yes, something as simple as this could turn on your Check Engine light.)
• Check for blown gaskets in your engine. Replace them.
• Check for fouled spark plugs and frayed wirings.
• Test the different sensors in your car. There’s one for the mass air flow, oil pressure, coolant, throttle position, and intake oxygen, among others.
• Check for manifold and hose leaks.

5. Did none of those turn the Check Engine light off? Then you’d have to use an on-board diagnostics or OBD II scanning tool. Connect it to the scanner output located at the driver’s foot well. It’s located just beneath the dashboard and above the accelerator and brake pedals. Different vehicles come up with different codes on the scanner. To determine the reading you’ll get, refer to your car owner’s manual and have the concerned system repaired immediately.

If you don’t have an OBD II scan tool, it should cost you around $80 to $400 max. It’s not really a must-have in your garage but it would really help a lot when it comes to troubleshooting the Check Engine light. In the meantime, if you haven’t put out that stubborn little light on your dash yet, better put off that visit to the emissions control agency to avoid getting that failing grade that comes in the form of a denied registration.

Batteries–we’ve been quite dependent on them since they were invented by Alessandro Volta two centuries ago. We use batteries to operate so many products today, from the smallest nanotechnology gadgets to huge power-hungry industrial machines. We rely so much on them that you won’t be able to drive your car without one. Of course, that isn’t news for you anymore, but many car owners have yet to realize how much their car’s performance would be affected if its battery isn’t properly functioning.

Without the car battery, it won’t just be impossible for you to use the electronic and electrical components in your car. You might not be able to start your car at all as well. Or, if you don’t consider that bad enough, your car’s ignition system might suddenly die on you in the middle of a stop-and-go traffic. Surely you don’t want to add any of that to your exciting adventures with your car. So, make sure your ride’s powerhouse is always in good condition.

If you’re suspecting that your car battery’s already acting up, the best logical thing to do is to perform a check by either testing its voltage or measuring its electrolyte’s specific gravity. If the voltage is less than 12.4 volts (or 6.2 volts for a 6-volt battery) and/or the specific gravity is lower than 1.225, then you already have to replace your car battery. Good thing, that’s easy to do with the following steps designed for both DIY and non-DIY fanatics.

You will have to prepare: a 10 millimeter wrench, a pair of pliers, safety goggles, gloves, and a wire brush or a battery terminal cleaner.

1. Turn off your car’s engine. Remove the key from the ignition switch to make sure the ignition isn’t activated and the battery isn’t receiving any amount of power from the electrical system. Never ignore this step if you don’t want to get electrocuted or risk the battery exploding in front of you.

2. Open the hood and locate your car battery. (Any self-respecting car owner should at least know where their car’s battery is located.)

3. Remove the battery clamp. Also called the battery hold down bracket, the battery clamp may come in a metal strap design or straight rod with wing nuts. It keeps the battery securely mounted in its tray to keep it from being shaken or rattled too much every time you drive over bumpy roads and rough terrain.

4. Remove the negative cable from the terminal. The negative cable is usually the one with the black insulation. First, secure the head of the clamp bolt with a wrench or a pair of pliers. Then, using another wrench, remove or just loosen the nut that tightens up the clamp connecting the cable to the terminal. Now if you’re not sure where to turn the nut towards, just keep in mind the general rule when it comes to nuts and screws—go left to loosen, go right to tighten.

5. Remove the positive cable, the red one just opposite the negative cable. Same steps apply as with the negative cable removal.

6. Lift the battery from the tray. If you’ve never handled a car battery before and have no idea how heavy it is, then you may want to ask for a buddy to help you lift it. The battery may look lightweight to you with its plastic casing, but it contains fluid inside and numerous lead panels that all in all could make the battery weigh as much as 10.8 kilograms or 24 pounds.

7. Since you’ve removed the battery, this is a perfect time to clean the other components of its assembly. Using a plastic bristled brush, wash the dirt off the battery tray with water. For the wire connectors or lugs, use a wire brush and water-baking soda solution to scrape off any grime or battery solution deposits that have accumulated especially on the part that directly contacts the battery terminals.

8. Put the new battery on the tray, reinstall the clamp, and you’re done!

If you want to be sure the new battery’s fine, you can perform a load test again. To make the job easier for you, you can simply use a digital multimeter. If the meter registers a voltage reading of 13.5 to 14.5 volts, you can rest assured your new battery will do fine.