Free Auto Repair Manuals Online » Auto Repair Manuals

Replacing your car’s windshield wipers

admin — Wed, 01 Dec 2010 12:00:19 +0000

Wipers are very important tools of our cars. This keeps our car’s windshield clean while driving. A broken wiper is not cool and dangerous as this might affect visibility while driving. That’s why at the signs of windshield wiper damage, you should have your car’s windshield wipers replaced. Clueless on how to replace the wiper blades of your car? Don’t worry, because we have some tips on how to replaces your old, broken wiper blades with a new one.

Make sure that you have a flat head screwdriver to help you with this task. Also, remember to place a cloth or an old shirt between the windshield and the wipers. This prevents the windshield wipers from touching the windshield that could cause scratches.

- Remove the old wipers. Use the old wipers as a point of comparison as to what you should get to replace them. In removing the old blades, remember the three different mechanisms commonly found in cars of today: The universal slide (the common blade design); the side pin (made of 7mm. pin that is at the right angle to the wiper arm) and the bayonet arm.

- Buy the new wipers. Only get the wiper blade that fits your vehicle.

- Install the new wipers. Just follow the instructions that came with the wipers that you bought. The inlays that come with the wipers have images and step-by-step instructions on how you can install the wipers. Just like in the removal of the wipers, remember the three mechanisms; The universal slide, the side pin and the bayonet arm.

- After installation, do check the wipers by using the car’s windshield washers. This way you will know if the wipers are working well. There should be no squealing, chattering or streaking.

Now that you know the deal, there’s no excuse for you to keep your car’s windshield wipers broken. Go and keep those clean windshields anytime, anywhere.

Online Auto Repair Manuals

admin — Tue, 09 Nov 2010 05:24:42 +0000

True enough, you have made sure that all your tools are already complete and spanking brand new. Seems fun, isn’t it? But wait-have you gotten yourself some online auto repair manuals already?

For guys like you who are novice when it comes to auto maintenance, online auto repair manuals are really heaven-sent. Before you try to tear your vehicle apart, make sure you understand the basics of vehicle repair, which you can get from online auto repair manuals. Without online auto repair manuals to instruct you through the process, you will be in for problems and huge expenses. With so many options available in terms of online auto repair manuals, it’s wise to grab one for yourself right away.

When you’re unaware about how to fix an issue in your car, online auto repair manuals come in handy. Simply put, you need online auto repair manuals because they are your quick guides whenever you have to fix your vehicle.

Benefits of Using Online Auto Repair Manuals

You might be wondering why there’s a need for online auto repair manuals. Nowadays, online auto repair manuals are rapidly replacing printed auto repair manuals as the DIY book of choice for many car owners. That’s why a lot of car owners are looking for online auto repair manuals.

The best thing about getting online auto repair manuals from the Web is that online auto repair manuals can be yours and are ready to use in a matter of minutes. All it takes are a few clicks here and there to visit a website where you can download online auto repair manuals. Online auto repair manuals are a far cry from buying printed auto repair manuals, which will take you days or even weeks of waiting for your package to be mailed to you. No worries about shipping costs and delays because online auto repair manuals need not be shipped in the first place.

Rather than checking multiple pages of printed repair manuals, you can save more time by just clicking through different links to find and download online auto repair manuals. Too busy to scan through pages and pages? Then the convenient online auto repair manuals are just for you. Make online auto repair manuals your best friend, and it will take care of you. Also, convenience is one of the many things you’ll enjoy when you use online auto repair manuals. If you want to have the online auto repair manuals ready when you need them, you can print and bring them along with you whenever you perform DIY repairs. When you can’t understand, for instance, how a wiring goes into a certain electrical system in your car, then the ability to print online auto repair manuals proves to be very useful.

Online auto repair manuals not only save you time, but also money. Also, you’ll have to spend less for online auto repair manuals than for printed ones. Thanks to online auto repair manuals, you’ll never have to spend a lot of dollars for the repair bill. Are you torn between using online auto repair manuals and taking your car to auto repair shops? Listen, pal. Online auto repair manuals are availble in various formats like mpeg, mp3, ebook, and PDF. You can download online auto repair manuals in ebook or PDF and print them immediately.

On the other hand, if you need online auto repair manuals that are protable and interactive, then you can choose online auto repair manuals in video or audio format. Among the helpful features in many online auto repair manuals are location diagrams that you can refer to when you don’t know where a certain part goes into what system in your car. What’s more, online auto repair manuals include the most commonly occuring problem in cars with the same year, make, and model as yours. Online auto repair manuals also give you the specifics on fixing those problems. Up-to-date information in terms of diagnosing, fixing, and repairning cars is extermely important. All these things that online auto repair manuals offer may not be available in most printed repair manuals.

That’s why online auto repair manuals are a better choise than printed manuals. And online auto repair manuals are such a helpful tool for DIY auto mechanics like you, right?

Tips to Locate Online Auto Repair Manuals

You shouldn’t make a fuss about looking for online auto repair manuals. Why is that so? Thousands of websites out there offer huge databases of online auto repair manuals. In an instant, thousands or even millions of search results of online auto repair manuals will pop on your screen. Then browse your way to spot the online auto repair manuals that you need. Simply type in the following search terms: year, make, and model + repair manual + brake issues so that you can get focused search results on online auto repair manuals that you need.

Choosing the Best Online Auto Repair Manuals

No two online auto repair manuals are created equal. To determine if online auto repair manuals fit your needs, you have to look into several factors. First, you must make sure that the online auto repair manuals you select is made particularly for your vehicle’s make and model. It will be pointless to get online auto repair manuals that are made for other a make and model that are different from yours.

Check the background of the brand and the quality of content to jusge if certain online auto repair manuals are accurate. In case you find obvious errors in the content, don’t bother reading those online auto repair manuals anymore and start looking for other manuals on the Internet.

You can’t trust online auto repair manuals that lack details. Your online auto repair manuals must not contain too broad and unclear information, lest you will just resort to making inaccurate guesses. It pays to use online auto repair manuals with clear and detailed instructions so that you can perform them properly.

That way, you ensure that you can easily understand the steps stated in the online auto repair manuals. You can take advantage of this feature if you want to get search results on any info you need at a lightning speed.

There are online auto repair manuals that come with money-back guarantee so that you can ask for a refund if in case you’re not happy with your purchased online auto repair manuals.

How Much to Spend for Online Auto Repair Manuals?

It is dependent on the website that offers a selection of online auto repair manuals. You can select from among online auto repair manuals that you can subscribe to either every month or year. Do you think online auto repair manuals are worthwhile expenses? Yes, online auto repair manuals are worth every penny you spent. And we say it again: online auto repair manuals cost less than their printed counterparts. Getting into consideration that these online auto repair manuals come at low prices and provide a lot of useful DIY ideas and information, then there’s no doubt that online auto repair manuals make a great investment for every DIY auto mechanic.

You’ll never have to play guessing games again or to make regular trips to the local auto repair shop, thanks to handy online auto repair manuals. As a first-time auto repair DIYer, investing in online auto repair manuals is one of the best things you’ll ever do for your prized investment. You’ll be thankful for having online repair manuals because of all the benefits they bring to your wallet and of course, your vehicle. These online auto repair manuals can be your DIY mentor, especially when you’re just starting to learn the basics of auto repair.

Once you have your own online auto repair manuals, you can proceed to fix your car as professional mechanics do. Are you up for the challenge now with the help of your online auto repair manuals? Enjoy worry-free DIY repairs wth online auto repair manuals that are within your reach. Even novice DIY mechanics need online auto repair manuals as well.

How to Replace a Brake Caliper

admin — Sun, 24 Oct 2010 09:50:46 +0000

Does your ride keep on pulling to one side every time you step on the brakes? Do your brake pads easily and unevenly wear out? If you experience these problems—and even get a brake fluid leak coating your front brake pads for a bonus—then you definitely have to replace your brake caliper. Of course, a short call to your mechanic or a trip to the nearest repair shop would help you automatically solve this problem. But why don’t you try a DIY brake caliper replacement? It’s easy and you’ll get to save on repair fee. Besides, it’s not one of those repair jobs where you literally have to get down and (really) dirty. Just follow the procedures below for that easy caliper replacement job.

Here are what you’ll need for the task: drip pan, screwdriver, socket wrench, floor jack, jack stand, caliper lube, new brass washers, new caliper

1. Park your vehicle on a level surface. Jack it up and secure it with jack stands under the pinch welds or frame rails. Remove the wheel assembly where the caliper to be replaced is located. (For step-by-step instructions on removing the wheel assembly, you can refer to this guide.)

2. Remove the two bolts retaining the caliper flex hose. Depending on your car, there may be clips instead of bolts.

3. Clamp the caliper hose with a needle nosed vise grip to keep the brake fluid from pouring out. When putting the vise grip on the hose, however, make sure you don’t clamp it too tight. It might ruin the hose’s structural integrity and make it more prone to developing cracks and holes.

4. Remove the banjo fitting at the end of the hose by unscrewing the banjo bolt with a socket wrench. Throw away the washers on the fitting. You have to replace them with new ones upon reassembly.

5. Remove the caliper bolt. It’s usually found just beneath the banjo fitting. Depending on your car make and model, there may be two caliper bolts you have to remove: an upper bolt located above the banjo fitting and a lower one located below.

6. You can now remove the caliper. All you have to do is pull it up; it will pivot on its guide pin. Once it gets off the brake rotor’s surface, pull it to the side (towards the engine) to slide it off the guide pin, that unthreaded bolt on which the caliper hangs.

7. Take off the brake pads by removing the retainer pin and the anti-rattle spring. Replace the brake pads if their friction surfaces are already worn beyond specification.

8. Now, you’re ready to put everything back with your new caliper. Put lubricant on back and ends of brake pads so they can be easily installed into the caliper and won’t make any noise once you use the brakes.

9. Slide loaded caliper back onto its guide pin and over the rotor. Put back the caliper mounting bolt(s) you removed earlier. Tighten them to the manufacturer’s specifications.

10. Re-install the banjo fitting with the brass washers. Make sure you replace these with new ones to ensure the seal.

11. Re-install the bolts that retain the caliper hose and then unclamp the vise grip from the caliper hose.

12. Locate the bleeder screw on the caliper body. Loosen it to allow the system to bleed by gravity. Wait for the brake fluid to drain. If the brake fluid is already flowing out steadily, make sure there’s no more air pocket in the passages by tapping on the caliper for a few times.

13. Tighten the bleeder screw and re-install the rubber cap on it. Make sure you install the cap properly to prevent leakage and keep dirt from fouling the screw and the brake fluid.

Having re-installed the brake pads, it’s important that you set them on the rotor first before driving. To do this, you just simply pump the brake pedal for a few times. If the pedal’s movement is all right, you can finally put back the wheel assembly. Finally, perform a road test to make sure your brakes are properly working.

How to Troubleshoot a Check Engine Light

admin — Sat, 23 Oct 2010 06:57:11 +0000

Automotive engineers have actually made car troubleshooting easier for car owners when they made use of the Check Engine light. Found on the instrument panel of your dash, the Check Engine light is that little sign that’s in the form of an outline of an engine’s side view. However, unless you’re familiar with what a car engine looks like outside of the engine compartment, you wouldn’t know why the symbol looks like that. Good thing, some manufacturers made it quite easier to identify by putting “Check Engine” along with the symbol. To troubleshoot a check engine light, here’s what you should do:

1. Start up your engine.

2. See if the Check Engine light is illuminated while the engine is running. A steady light usually indicates that there’s a problem in your vehicle and you should perform a check as soon as possible. However, if the light is blinking–or, in some vehicles, colored red instead of yellow–that means the problem is serious and you should have something in your car repaired or remedied before you drive it again.

3. Before popping up the hood or jacking up your car, do check other trouble indicators on your instrument cluster first. Some of these are the:

Oil pressure gauge — This would indicate if there’s still enough oil in your engine.
Temperature gauge — Its reading would give you a fairly accurate measurement of your engine’s temperature, whether it’s still below the ideal operating temperature or it’s already heating up dangerously.
Brake warning light — This could indicate if there’s an imbalance in brake fluid pressure in your wheels. Such imbalance usually occurs when the brakes are improperly bled.

4. If they check negative, you can try doing the following:

Tighten the fuel tank cap (Yes, something as simple as this could turn on your Check Engine light.)
Check for blown gaskets in your engine. Replace them.
Check for fouled spark plugs and frayed wirings.
Test the different sensors in your car. There’s one for the mass air flow, oil pressure, coolant, throttle position, and intake oxygen, among others.
Check for manifold and hose leaks.

5. Did none of those turn the Check Engine light off? Then you’d have to use an on-board diagnostics or OBD II scanning tool. Connect it to the scanner output located at the driver’s foot well. It’s located just beneath the dashboard and above the accelerator and brake pedals. Different vehicles come up with different codes on the scanner. To determine the reading you’ll get, refer to your car owner’s manual and have the concerned system repaired immediately.

If you don’t have an OBD II scan tool, it should cost you around $80 to $400 max. It’s not really a must-have in your garage but it would really help a lot when it comes to troubleshooting the Check Engine light. In the meantime, if you haven’t put out that stubborn little light on your dash yet, better put off that visit to the emissions control agency to avoid getting that failing grade that comes in the form of a denied registration.

How to Replace a Battery

admin — Fri, 22 Oct 2010 14:10:38 +0000

Batteries–we’ve been quite dependent on them since they were invented by Alessandro Volta two centuries ago. We use batteries to operate so many products today, from the smallest nanotechnology gadgets to huge power-hungry industrial machines. We rely so much on them that you won’t be able to drive your car without one. Of course, that isn’t news for you anymore, but many car owners have yet to realize how much their car’s performance would be affected if its battery isn’t properly functioning.

Without the car battery, it won’t just be impossible for you to use the electronic and electrical components in your car. You might not be able to start your car at all as well. Or, if you don’t consider that bad enough, your car’s ignition system might suddenly die on you in the middle of a stop-and-go traffic. Surely you don’t want to add any of that to your exciting adventures with your car. So, make sure your ride’s powerhouse is always in good condition.

If you’re suspecting that your car battery’s already acting up, the best logical thing to do is to perform a check by either testing its voltage or measuring its electrolyte’s specific gravity. If the voltage is less than 12.4 volts (or 6.2 volts for a 6-volt battery) and/or the specific gravity is lower than 1.225, then you already have to replace your car battery. Good thing, that’s easy to do with the following steps designed for both DIY and non-DIY fanatics.

You will have to prepare: a 10 millimeter wrench, a pair of pliers, safety goggles, gloves, and a wire brush or a battery terminal cleaner.

1. Turn off your car’s engine. Remove the key from the ignition switch to make sure the ignition isn’t activated and the battery isn’t receiving any amount of power from the electrical system. Never ignore this step if you don’t want to get electrocuted or risk the battery exploding in front of you.

2. Open the hood and locate your car battery. (Any self-respecting car owner should at least know where their car’s battery is located.)

3. Remove the battery clamp. Also called the battery hold down bracket, the battery clamp may come in a metal strap design or straight rod with wing nuts. It keeps the battery securely mounted in its tray to keep it from being shaken or rattled too much every time you drive over bumpy roads and rough terrain.

4. Remove the negative cable from the terminal. The negative cable is usually the one with the black insulation. First, secure the head of the clamp bolt with a wrench or a pair of pliers. Then, using another wrench, remove or just loosen the nut that tightens up the clamp connecting the cable to the terminal. Now if you’re not sure where to turn the nut towards, just keep in mind the general rule when it comes to nuts and screws—go left to loosen, go right to tighten.

5. Remove the positive cable, the red one just opposite the negative cable. Same steps apply as with the negative cable removal.

6. Lift the battery from the tray. If you’ve never handled a car battery before and have no idea how heavy it is, then you may want to ask for a buddy to help you lift it. The battery may look lightweight to you with its plastic casing, but it contains fluid inside and numerous lead panels that all in all could make the battery weigh as much as 10.8 kilograms or 24 pounds.

7. Since you’ve removed the battery, this is a perfect time to clean the other components of its assembly. Using a plastic bristled brush, wash the dirt off the battery tray with water. For the wire connectors or lugs, use a wire brush and water-baking soda solution to scrape off any grime or battery solution deposits that have accumulated especially on the part that directly contacts the battery terminals.

8. Put the new battery on the tray, reinstall the clamp, and you’re done!

If you want to be sure the new battery’s fine, you can perform a load test again. To make the job easier for you, you can simply use a digital multimeter. If the meter registers a voltage reading of 13.5 to 14.5 volts, you can rest assured your new battery will do fine.

How to Bleed Brakes with an Assistant

admin — Thu, 21 Oct 2010 08:44:36 +0000

Getting a spongy feel on your brake pedal? Then it’s high time you bleed your brake system. A spongy or resistance-free brake pedal means there’s too much air that’s taking up the space of the brake fluid.

Bleeding your ride’s brake system is easy. All you have to get is a wrench that would fit the bleeder screw, a container, a rubber hose that would fit the bleeder valve, new brake fluid, and a buddy to help you out. Here’s how you do it:

1. If you don’t have a garage to work in, just park your car on a flat surface where you can have enough space to work around your vehicle. Engage your ride’s parking brake.

2. Open your car’s hood. Find the brake master cylinder reservoir.

3. Take out the old brake fluid from the reservoir. You can use a turkey baster or battery solution filler to siphon the old fluid out.

4. Top off the reservoir with new brake fluid. Make sure you use a brake fluid that meets the specifications set by the manufacturer for your vehicle.

5. Lift up your vehicle using a floor jack. Lift the front first and then the rear. Support your vehicle with jack stands on its frame rails and pinch weld points. Never depend only on floor jacks to support your vehicle.

6. Beginning at the rear, take off either the left or right wheel assembly. This should be easy to do with these easy-to-follow instructions on wheel replacement.

7. After you’ve removed the wheel, locate the brake bleeder screw. It should be on the brake caliper or brake wheel cylinder.

8. Attach the end of a rubber or plastic hose onto the bleeder valve. The hose can be as short as 1.5 feet. It just has to be long enough for you to be able to dip its other free end into a container filled that’s partially filled with clean brake fluid. To be able to monitor the flow of the brake fluid, it would be best to use a clear hose and container.

9. Have your buddy pump the brake pedal for about 5 to 10 times before holding it down with constant pressure.

10. Using a wrench, slowly loosen the bleeder valve by about 3/4 turn. With your assistant holding the pedal down with constant pressure, the pedal should slowly drop to the floor as old brake fluid and some air bubbles come out of the drain hose.

11. When there are no more bubbles and old fluid flowing out, tighten the bleeder screw. Have your assistant release the pressure on the pedal. Don’t release the pedal before you close the bleeder valve as it will suck air in back into the brake system.

12. Repeat the bleeding procedure (steps 7 to 11) until no more air bubbles and old brake fluid are coming out of the drain tube.

13. Once you’ve completely bled the system, check the brake master cylinder and refill it. Don’t allow it to be completely drained.

14. You have just successfully bled the brake line in one of your wheels. You just have to follow the same steps for the rest of your wheel cylinder and brake caliper assemblies. Just remember to bleed the rear wheels first.

15. After you’re done with all the calipers, do a final check on the master cylinder. Refill if necessary. Check the firmness of the brake pedal. Put the wheels back and lower your vehicle. Go for a test drive.

The entire bleeding process may require quite an amount of brake fluid. Though it would allow you to save, it’s not advisable to reuse brake fluid that’s been bled out or mixed with the old fluid. This is to ensure the quality of the fluid in the system. To make your brake fluid last, just protect the system from leaks and keep its brake pads and shoes maintained.

How to Replace a Ball Joint

admin — Wed, 20 Oct 2010 09:43:06 +0000

The ball joint is an integral part of any vehicle’s suspension system. It might sound like a minor component, but it’s really not. It is basically a bearing that acts as the pivot to allow movement between the suspension and the wheels of your car. They are used in linkage systems to control the motion of the linked parts, which is why no steering and suspension system can do without a non-functional ball joint. Make sure you replace any bad ball joints as soon as possible, because a failed ball joint will mean loss of control over your car—something that can lead to accidents and injuries. The tires and other surrounding parts may also be damaged when the ball joint fails.

You will need a few tools on hand to replace that busted ball joint. You’ll need a ball joint separator, a ball peen hammer, a half-inch drive torque wrench, a standard wrench set, a socket and ratchet set, and a bunch of jack stands. Don’t forget that brand-new ball joint. You can get one from your local auto parts dealer or your trusted online auto parts retailer.

First, make sure your ride is parked on a solid and level surface so that you encounter less hassle while jacking it up. You don’t want it to roll or lean—especially while you’re underneath. Afterward, loosen the lug nuts of your wheels. Don’t remove them yet.

Lift your car’s front area using your floor jack, then support it with the jack stands. This ensures total safety while you work from underneath your car. Don’t let the floor jack bear the weight of the car; the jack stands will distribute the weight.

With the car fully supported, you can now completely remove the wheel lug nuts and the wheels themselves.

Use another floor jack to support the lower control arm. Seat the jack near the ball joint. After that, remove the cotter pin attached to the ball joint retaining nut. The cotter pin is the tapered fastener that secures the retaining nut. Turn the nut a few times to loosen it up.

Use your ball joint separator to take the ball joint away from the knuckle. Remove the nut before you set the knuckle aside.

Press out the damaged or bad ball joint from the upper or lower control arm using a tool, and then press your replacement ball joint where the old one fits.

Reinstall your steering knuckle into the assembly of the ball joint and control arm. Make sure you torque the castle nut to the amount specified by your manufacturer or in your car’s user manual.

Get a new cotter pin in place, and then reinstall the wheels. Make sure you torque the lug nuts according to your car’s specifications.

Now you have a new ball joint to keep your suspension and steering systems performing at their best. Make sure you maintain the ball joints in your ride. If your ride uses standard ball joints, make sure that you keep them well-lubed. Of course, sealed ball joints don’t require any additional lubrication. However, you might need to check for sealed ball joint failure in the neighborhood of every 80,000 miles because this type will break eventually. When you hear snapping or clicking when you turn and squeaking when you stop or when you go over bumps, check if you need to replace a ball joint again. Keeping ball joints in top condition will ensure your safety and your car’s smooth operation on the road.

How to Check Manual Transmission Oil Level

admin — Tue, 19 Oct 2010 11:28:22 +0000

You can never be too sure when it comes to your ride. That’s why auto manufacturers and mechanics recommend that you perform regular maintenance on your ride. And when it comes to servicing operations, one system you should regularly inspect is the transmission. Considered the most complicated of all systems in a vehicle, the manual transmission depends on hydraulic pressure to let you change gears and drive your car in varying speeds. So aside from keeping all its components in good condition, you should also make sure that its fluid is always sufficient.

To check your car’s manual transmission fluid, you’ll have to use a car jack, a jack stand or ramp, and a socket wrench. Unlike with automatic transmissions, you should check the fluid in a manual transmission when the engine isn’t running. Following are the steps on how to do it.

1. Turn off the engine. Let it cool for a couple of hours if it has just been driven. Jack up your vehicle and secure it with axle stands. Be sure that the car is held up at the proper jack points before going underneath it.

2. Locate the filler bolt or plug on transmission’s side. Don’t confuse the filler bolt with the drain plug; the first is located higher than the latter. You wouldn’t want to make the mistake of removing the drain plug when you’re directly under it—unless of course you want to bathe in your ride’s transmission fluid.

3. Using a wrench, loosen the filler bolt. Turn it counterclockwise. It could be hard though, depending on how much muck or rust have accumulated around the bolt. If you want, you can spray WD40 on the bolt to loosen up the rust. Leave it for about one hour to make it easier for you to unscrew the plug. If you’ve done this and it still won’t budge, you might have to remove it by heating the plug or the immediate area around the hole. You can use propane gas torch to do this while trying to slowly loosen the plug. But if luck isn’t really on your side, and all of those ways fail, then you would have to bring your car to the auto repair shop for professional help.

On the other hand, if you’ve been able to loosen the plug without so much trouble, then congratulations! You can now unscrew the bolt carefully. Put a catch pan underneath just in case the transmission fluid spills.

4. Now you can check the fluid level. Do this by sticking a finger into the filler hole. Curl your finger downwards. If you can feel the transmission fluid, then the level’s still all right. If not, you might need to refill it. (For refilling, go to Step 6.)

5. Check the fluid condition. Just like the coolant, brake fluid, and engine oil, the transmission fluid also becomes quite soiled over time. The color of new transmission fluid is red. Over time, it turns brownish, which means it’s already dirty and needs to be changed. To check your transmission fluid, drip some of it onto a clean sheet of white paper.

Check the fluid’s appearance and odor. It should be clean and transparent. There should be no metal filings, flakes, or any visible particulates in it. If it’s already too dark in color or almost black, and it has a burnt odor, that means there’s something wrong in your transmission system, and most probably it won’t be long before it gives up.

6. Topping the fluid off. Since the filler hole is located under the vehicle, you can’t possibly use a funnel to pour transmission fluid into the gearbox. So the best thing to do is to use an oil pump (It usually looks like an aluminum gun with a trigger and a cylindrical barrel in which you put the fluid.) Pour the transmission fluid little by little until the level reaches the filler hole.

7. Once it’s full, you can finally screw the filler bolt back into place. Tighten it first by hand and then use a torque wrench.

It would be best to check the transmission fluid every 30,000 to 50,000 miles or so, or as often as recommended by the car manufacturer. You may look for this specification in your car owner’s manual.

How to Replace an Alternator

admin — Mon, 18 Oct 2010 07:40:01 +0000

The alternator is an indispensable part of any vehicle. Not only does it convert the power generated by your ride’s engine, it is also responsible for charging your battery. Without a functional alternator, then you’re going to have an uncomfortable time without the electricity-powered devices on your car. Worse, your battery might suddenly discharge in the middle of nowhere, leaving you unable to start your vehicle. A faulty alternator can even damage your battery. Replace the alternator right away once you feel that something isn’t right with your electrical system.

You will need the following tools for this replacement task: a combination wrench set, a screwdriver, a serpentine belt tool, and a socket and ratchet set. You will also have to prepare a multi-meter—preferably a digital one—for troubleshooting other electrical components and wiring before replacing the alternator, as well as for checking your replacement job. The multi-meter, also known as a multitester, is an electronic tool that measures current, resistance and voltage.

To start, pull up the hood and look for the alternator. Before you begin working on it, check your car battery’s voltage first. If it shows less than 9 volts, then you most likely have a dead battery and your alternator could be just fine. If the battery has enough voltage—12 to 13 volts on the digital multi-meter reading should be enough—and passes the load test, then it means you have a bad alternator that needs to be replaced. When you start the engine, the digital multi-meter reading should spike to somewhere around 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

Disconnect the negative cable of the battery using an open-end wrench, then the power and ground wires. These wires are located at the back of the alternator. Make sure you take note of where each wire is connected to exactly, so that you can have a reference when you reconnect them after when the new alternator is installed. Next, disconnect the connector of the wiring harness.

Get the bolts of the alternator bracket loose without remove them completely. After that, loosen the alternator belt tensioner and the alternator adjusting bolts. With those fasteners removed, you can now remove the alternator drive belt. If you see considerable signs of wear as well as fraying on the belt, then it would be best to replace it, too.

Get the appropriate socket or ratchet and remove the following: the mounting bolts of the alternator, any equipped spacers, any adjusting bolts, any lower pivot bolts and finally, the alternator itself. Put the new alternator in and reinstall all of the bolts and spacers that you removed from the old alternator (where applicable).

Reinstall the alternator belt then pull it up to the point where the alternator belt is tight enough. Tighten the mounting bolts on the alternator as you move the alternator unit gently, so that you can get the proper tension on the alternator belt. Proper alternator belt tension plays an important role in the smooth function of the alternator. A loose alternator drive belt will tend to slip, and the belt won’t be able to handle the electric load.

Once you achieve proper belt tension, you can now reconnect the power and ground wires. Refer to the notes that you took before as to which wire goes into which connection. After that, reinstall the connector of the wiring harness.

Check the alternator belt tension again by pushing down on the belt’s middle section. You will have to adjust it if it moves in excess of half an inch, because that means your alternator belt is too loose.

After adjusting the belt, reconnect the battery’s negative cable. Start your ride’s engine and check for the voltage from the battery using the multi-meter in order to find out if your alternator can now charge your battery. Shut the engine off before doing another inspection on the tension of the alternator belt. When necessary, readjust the belt for tightness.

That’s the last step. Replacing the alternator wasn’t so hard, wasn’t it? Now you don’t have to worry about getting stuck on the road thanks to a dead battery. You will also be able to enjoy the services of the many electric-powered devices on your car. With a fully-functional alternator, electric power won’t be an issue on your car anymore. Just make sure you check it periodically and replace it when needed.

How to Replace a Window Belt Strip

admin — Sun, 17 Oct 2010 10:30:37 +0000

Without proper automotive weatherstripping, you and your ride are both at the mercy of various elements like rainwater and gusts of wind. It’s also important to seal the gaps and openings in the frame and between doors so that the cold air in your car stays in your car. This way, the air conditioning unit won’t need to work overtime just to keep the cabin cool and comfortable. One such weatherstripping piece is the window belt strip. Because of its location, chipping and peeling of the material is a common problem after some time. To keep your ride locked tight, you need to replace damaged window belt strips right away.

Before you start doing anything, make sure you prepare your screwdriver and needle-nose pliers for this task. A pocket screwdriver will do, since you will only be using it to pick off a portion of the weatherstripping material. These are the two simple tools you’ll need to complete the replacement of that damaged window belt strip.

You will also need new weatherstripping material to replace the damaged strip. If you can, get material that matches the rest of your weatherstripping to keep things consistent. Depending on the dimensions of the material that you manage to get, you might need to trim it to fit the dimensions of your window belt.

The first order of business is locating the window belt strips. When you’ve found them, check for any damage like cracking. Sometimes, entire sections of the material will be missing or torn off. If there is considerable damage to a belt strip, you’ll know you really have to replace it. You can probably ignore a few chips and smaller peeled sections, but these are already indications that the strip material is starting to wear out.

Roll the window down to the lowest possible point it can go. After that, you can now start prying a part of the window belt strip off the door panels. The best place to pry away is a corner of the strip material. You will need your pocket screwdriver for this purpose. Be careful not to chip the upper edge of your window in the process.

When part of the window belt strip has already been pried loose, take out the entire strip carefully by pulling it out using your needle-nose pliers. The operative word here is “carefully.” If you try to force the issue, you might not remove the material cleanly and you’ll have to scrape some of the leftovers off. This will make you spend more time for removal.

After removing the old strip, you should also remove the old adhesive used to attach it. Make the painted surface underneath rougher by rubbing sandpaper over it. This way, the new strip will be able to attach faster as adhesive will be able to latch on to the rough surface much easier compared to a smooth, flat surface.

Using the existing clips of your old belt strip, snap and secure the replacement strip. Once you have it in place, roll the window up to check the window belt strip for proper fit and sealing. Make any necessary adjustments to make sure the strip has a tight fit.

The next chance you get, check if the new piece of weatherstripping on the window belt will seal properly even when your car is moving. Weatherstripping’s ability to seal on a stationary vehicle is different from when a moving vehicle is concerned. Good weatherstripping should be able to compensate for high speeds as well, so that the strip can keep the respective section sealed tight while moving.

Those are the simple steps it takes to replace the window belt strip. Making sure that each piece of weatherstripping on your car is always in the best condition helps keep you and your ride protected while allowing for a more comfortable drive. Even some weatherstripping pieces that you may neglect, such as the window belt strip, contribute significantly to the overall comfort of your drives. So, when you see that the window belt strip can’t fulfill its function right, just follow the easy steps above and you’ll be good to go once again.